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The Crazy Mountains are seen to the north-northwest on the West Fork of Duck Creek. Credit: Chris Boyer / Kestrel Ariel
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An island designed with chalkboard ownership, the Crazy Mountains are the source of the state’s most contentious land use debate. The Crow Indians, the Northern Pacific Railway, American Foresters, ranchers, hobbyists, and politicians have all claimed parts of the Crazy Mountains at different times. Between lawsuits, two land transfer proposals along the lines of the Forest Service and the ongoing development of some large private properties in Gracie Hills, the future of one of the state’s most beautiful landscapes is now unfolding. .
Today we’re publishing Part I of a three-part series exploring the past, present and future of Montana’s Crazy Mountains.
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Crazy Mountains rise from central Montana like a cut in the earth’s crust. A mountain chain running north and south, the landscape, once described as the “Swiss Alps of America,” is home to mountain goats and goldfish, wolverines and grizzly bears – and one of the most serious involvement in land use debates. State
Long before the Northern Pacific Railroad went west, the Crow Indians made frequent trips to the Crazies. Other tribes will not follow them in the range because they believe it gives the crows divine powers. “They say there are a lot of healing spirits, a lot of spiritual power,” said Shane Doyle, an actor and teacher who is active in discussing the future of mountains. “That’s where the name Gracie came from – it’s spiritual. A name, really.” This range in the spiritual nature of the Crow. is still popular.
As a child, Chief Plenty Cobbs visited a mental institution to pray and fast. Here he dreamed of bringing cattle instead of bison. He saw that the land had changed under the control of the colonists, and a great storm came down on an ancient forest, destroying all the trees that had some moisture in it. When many conversations came from the mountains, the Crow elders interpreted the dream, realizing that the war with the presence of the white man would lead to the death of many of the Crow Indians.
Crazy Mountain Ranch, which owns the Yellowstone Club near Big Sky, was purchased by Lone Mountain Land, a subsidiary of Crossharbor Capital Partners.
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“The dreams that the Crow Indians had there in the 1850s and 1860s were very important to Crow-white relations in the Yellowstone Valley and Bozeman. Those relations were always good — peaceful, productive,” he said. he. the war with the settlers, and it would have been worse. It can be really bloody.
In 1851, the United States government contracted to establish the Crow Reservation, which covered 38 million acres from the mouth of the Yellowstone River to the Powder River Basin, mostly along rivers. The Crazy Mountains fell within the boundaries defined by the Fort Laramie Treaty, but in 1868, 30 million acres were removed: the Crazy Mountains of the Crow tribe – at least in name – are not.
“They say there’s a lot of healing spirits, a lot of spiritual power. That’s where the name Gracie comes from — it’s a spiritual name, really.” Crow teacher and artist Shane Doyle.
During that time, railroad tents spread throughout the western United States. To encourage railroad companies to invest in new routes, the U.S. government gave railroad companies alternative square-mile tracts, creating a system of board ownership that continued to plague land managers, private property owners themselves, and members of the public who reproduce. a century later.
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Brad Wilson’s ancestors lived on Smith Creek in the Upper Shields Valley at a time when the US government was giving land in the Crazies to the railroad. His uncle owns a two-story dirt farm. His grandfather was a gentle keeper of hunting and sheep camps and used to moonlight for a while during Prohibition. Looking back on his youth in the mountains, Wilson is feeling a little more active these days. “I want to go back now and know what’s coming and prepare everything,” he said.
“All” he is talking about is the loss of the means he used for the best of his life, the frustration of the forests that do not want to fight for them and, in one case, the introduction of human presence that threatens to eliminate the wild animals that be like this. amazing surroundings.
Wilsall, who lives in Wilsall, a small town 337 miles away, a dozen miles west of the range, says he grew up on the Crazies. Zaka hunts them down, and soon introduces his own children. He and his children encountered the children of the mob in the Mad North during the journey; On one trip, a Canadian lynx watched the sun on a mountain while hunting. In this breath she describes the extreme conditions she experienced with her children and the 11,000 foot peak without worrying about being weak or unprepared. “Wow, what a treasure we have,” he said in the next entry, and the concern about the loss of the habitat that leads to an increase in public interest in the area. But it’s hard to blame anyone for being drawn in by the sheer beauty of the mountains. “You go to Crazy Hills, and I can’t explain them,” Wilson said. “It’s almost magic.”
Wilson served as a deputy sheriff until 1988, when an unsuccessful bid for Parke County sheriff led him to move on to become the county’s deputy traffic warden. In 2015, looking for a way to give back to his community and get organized, he volunteered to get a group together to spend the summer on the Porcupine Lowline Trail, an 11-mile trail between the same foresters. two. He often goes on backpacking and hunting trips. Alex Sienkiewicz, Yellowstone District Ranger in the Custer Gallatin National Forest, was happy about that, Wilson said.
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But suddenly he was killed. Wilson has been informed that he will no longer be working on the trail, and will no longer be welcome at meetings where the Forest Service has disclosed other access problems. “I was excited,” he said, “and then, boom, it closed.”
Frustrated by the lack of transparency and concern about the Forest Service’s plans to replace roads, he founded Friends of the Mad Mountaineers, an advocacy group to preserve and find ways to escape the madness and join in their hearts. The strategy.
Map showing Northern Pacific Railroad support in Montana, Idaho, and parts of North Dakota and eastern Washington. Credit: Rand McNally & Co, 1890.
Wilson said Friends of Crazy Mountain, now “32 strong (with 570 followers),” Kathryn Kanayahu Kern of Helena, whose group is Montana Wildlife and Habitat Enhancement, is a specialist in the issue of participation. (Kannayahu Kern argued for public access to a BLM tract of land in central Montana owned by the Wilkes brothers, the $2 billion oil conglomerate, one of the world’s largest private landowners. it’s in central Montana.)
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Kanayahu began investigating Kern’s condition. Locked gates, “no trespassing” signs, illegally removed signs, forest service signs, signs cut from trees, and brush piles erected in the middle of trails to prevent pedestrians from trespassing: What she found did not impress her. way. One way she went through a gate and thought she was going to go down the road, but the gate was locked behind her and there was no cell phone service to call for help. He scared her. And that encouraged her.
A series of public information requests were followed. Kanayahu Kern, a legal scholar and diligent researcher, has collected hundreds, perhaps thousands, of pages.
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